Mist and Honey badgers; Elephants and Lala palms…

Mist and Honey badgers; Elephants and Lala palms…
We wake up to a blanket of mist enveloping us. The winter sun rising is hot enough to soon burn it off and the fig tree below the bar deck is already full of vervet monkeys and Trumpeter hornbills feasting on the ripe fruit.
Off to the excellent Mahenye airstrip which is guarded by a venerable baobab, and has just received one of the top ratings in Zimbabwe, to collect Hugo Van Der Westhuizen of Frankfurt Zoological Society and Mark Saunders of Malilangwe Trust for a meeting. Maybe one day my wild dog plane will fly here from Kafue, Zambia, where she is based….
After a morning of meetings, we head to the Park, crossing the Save River by vehicle and up the steep far bank, entering one of my personal paradises. Guests the day before have seen a pack of wild dogs on the Runde River…most exciting…I wonder if that pack has denned yet? Maybe we will come across them today….
This thought almost makes up for me not being with my wild dogs on Senuko at this traumatic time in their lives….
A gorgeous game drive in warm winter sunlight, glowing Lala palms and parrots flitting and screeching between baobabs. Sitting on the banks of the Runde we watch elephants, vultures and bateleurs bathing, then see a young Martial Eagle land amongst numerous elephant droppings on the sand opposite us. He commences bouncing between the elephant dung balls, landing on each in succession, lifting and dropping them ! Almost a game of Eagle marbles…! What on earth is he playing at!? He does not try to pull at them with his beak. Young, and inexperienced at hunting as he probably is, is he very hungry and searching for beetles and grubs? His antics entrained and fascinate us for many minutes. He is still at his game when we have to leave….
A sundowner at Tembwehata pan brings multitudes of waterfowl, more elephants, baboons, warthogs, zebras and stunningly lit Nyala families, striped gold in the late light guarded by stately bulls and with many baby Nyala prancing among them.
Driving home brings its share of special memories: a scuttling honey badger ducking under cover as we pass; a four-toed elephant shrew bouncing along the track in front of us; the fantastically sculptured silhouettes of dozens and dozens of baobabs on baobab ridge, inky black against the burnt orange sky. Vulture shapes decorate a baobab, against a sickle moon and new stars palely shining.
Down on the riverbank, I catch their scent before I see them, then there they are in the dusk-two bulky bull buffaloes, who snort and stomp away, heads lifted high, as we reach our crossing homewards on the dark Save River. The smell of the warm wet sand and the riverine vegetation envelopes us.

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Mahove Camp and Baobabs; Night sounds and True Wilderness

A night of the deepest sounds of Africa, at Mahove camp on the Runde river. After a gentle, magical afternoon of sketching the baobabs close to camp, whilst listening to a cow herd of elephants splashing their way across the Runde River, I return to camp as a fire is lit and dusk falls. The Safari vehicle departed long ago. Clive, Derek and Sarah Soloman were on a mission to record Eco-sounds in cathedral Mopani woodland, I am content, sitting alone to watch the nightjars flit silently above the reed bed below me, catching the hundreds of insects that are invisible to my poor human eyes.
James, Titus and Vincent potter about laying a pretty table for dinner and cooking up a storm in the bush kitchen.
After a bush dinner par excellence, chirping frogs and a toad or two lull us all to sleep in the row of green tents that string along the banks of the Runde River.
The darkness brings the distant roar of lions coming ever closer. and closer….!
Scops owls purr, and Giant Eagle owls call sonorously.
Jackals yodel and sing all night and the earlydawn light brings the clatter of Spurfowl and booming Southern ground hornbills,
Fish Eagles, Hadeda, Doves, Bulbuls and Go away birds round out the dawn chorus as Grey headed parrots begin to call and flit from tall tree to tall tree…..
By sunrise I am wandering through the baobabs on the ridge behind the camp. Watching the new day break the baobab-studded horizon and listening to at least three giant Eagle owls call around me. Every baobab has a character and the silhouettes are endlessly inspiring in the orange glow of the sun…
Ragged Lala palm fronds, chewed red by passing elephants, form fascinating foregrounds against the sky.
Maerua edulis flowers sparkle in the early morning light, as the early morning rays of sun finger an old impala skull, remnants of a wild dog kill….
http://www.zimbabweflora.co.zw/speciesdata/species.php…

Posted in adventure travel, Africa, African flora, African Safari, African wild dogs, art, bio diversity, birding, birds, bush camps, Chilo Gorge, Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, chilojo cliffs, clive stockil, conservation, conservation education, conservation news, cooking, eco-tourism, education, elephants, endangered species, food, food culture, gonarezhou national park, great limpopo transfrontier conservation Area, Honey gatherers, Hunter gatherers, landscape, Lin Barrie Art, owls, painted Dogs, predators, prey, Rivers, safari, Save River, serenity, travel, wilderness, zimbabwe, Zimbabwe Parks | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Wild Dog Diaries by Lin Barrie, writings and sketches of the Nyarushanga Pack…

For the last few years I have been honored with the sometimes fleeting but always  constant presence of the Nyarushanga Pack in my life, at Senuko Ranch in the Save Valley Conservancy.

Even when they are mobile and elusive, their social intricacies and denning habits are a constant source of inspiration for my writings and sketches…

The Hunt

The Hunt

 

Names of pack members in 2014:

Alpha female
Alpha male -Foxy
Wolf -male-collared 2014
Cloud-female- born 2012
Cape-female- born 2012, scalloped right ear
Junior-male -born in 2009,
Lupus-male-born 2013 collared
Eve-female-born 2013?
Starbum -male-star shapes left hindquarters -born 2013?
Star-male-star shape on his right hind leg,
Mase-male-gorgeous milky white-born 2014

 

ID sheets, kindly supplied by African Wildlife Conservation Fund…

Nyarushanga ID 2015 page 1 lo res

 

Nyarushanga ID 2015 page 2 lo resNyarushanga Pack-
Diaries by Lin Barrie

2014
An African wild dog den in an old warthog burrow, in a termite mound near a huge rocky hill (a ‘kopjie’) on Senuko Ranch in the Save Valley Conservancy.
GPS co-ordinates: 36K0401936-7719474

Posted in blog:
African wild dog pups make life worth living… | wineandwilddogs

https://wildlifeandwilddogs.wordpress.com/2014/08/07/african-wild-dog-pups-make-life-worth-living/
6th July 2014 at the den
By 4.36 all the adult dogs have left the den.
I count nine, strung out across my path as they depart, led by the Alpha female.
Headed South.
Last night they headed north, night before that headed South….
Last night the Alpha female stayed at the den after the rest of the pack had departed…is tonight her first hunt with the pack since giving birth? Or will she shortly return to check on the pups….?
I have noticed over the last few days that she does not want the pups to suckle too much, turning and pinning them with her open mouth if they follow her too persistently…they are fast becoming solely dependant on meat regurgitated for them by the hunters.
The Alpha female and Foxy, who seems to me to be her mate, the Alpha male, lead the way. He is very attentive to her.
Last to leave the den, a young female checks the pups, leads them to the upper den mouth, and growls at them when she departs and one tries to follow her. She turns and places her open mouth over its neck, upon which it whimpers and retreats back to the den mouth.
She leaves, fast and anxious to catch up with her hunting companions.
The pups play half heartedly for a while…
By 4.50 pm all seven pups have made their way down into the lower den entrance, among the tree roots.
All goes very quiet.
My favourite time…sitting alone, but not lonely, watching, writing, thinking at the wild dog den, knowing those little bodies are snug in their hole waiting for the return of the take-away team! 5.30 pm and I am still writing, engrossed in my thoughts. Something makes me look up. A buffalo bull, silently arrived, stands in the road staring at me indignantly, as if he has always been there and I am the one newly arrived. He is in good condition, fat, but his left horn is worn to a stump and his right horn is broken and ragged.
He picks his way cautiously around me through the knee high golden grass, halting often to assess whether I might pose a threat. At 5.44 pm Scops owls start calling, one close by, answered by another and yet another further and further away.
A Freckled nightjar explores a few bars of sound, and spurfowls make bedtime noises.
5.49 pm – it is now too dark to see, and the buffalo bull has evaporated onto the night. Something large slips and slides down through the rocks of the Kopjie…intriguing.
Still no sign of the Alpha female, so I am fairly certain that she hunts with the pack tonight.
This morning when I watched at the den, they did not seem to have very full bellies or bloody necks. They regurgitated small amounts for the female and pups , but perhaps did not hunt very successfully in the early hours of this morning.
Tonight she must be extra hungry….

25th July, 2014 in Harare
I have been in Harare rebuilding the burnt house at 214 Brooke Drive, with the able help of so many good friends, including Matt Munroe, contractor, and my Dad.
Today this is my shopping list:
Cabbages tomatoes onions relish salt sadza nyama coke sweet buns plus Champagne and Marilyn Monroe Cake from Meg’s Treats ….
The first items are for a lunch of sadza ne nyama, which we cook and share together with the lovely building crew at 214…the last items are for my daughter Kelli’s 27th Birthday dinner, which we have early, before heading back to the Lowveld for the sad event of Ray Sparrow’s funeral on 27th July.
Celebrating the ongoing house rebuild and Kelli’s birthday, plus remembering and honouring the life of a dear departed friend, all rolled into a few short days…

28th July, 2014 at the den:
Something does not feel right at the Nyarushanga wild dog den this morning, as I listen to only one pup begging food from an adult who has run a grassy area at the base of the towering Kopjie, the site behind the den where the dogs seem to have relocated. I have been away from this den for too long, lost my sense of continuity…is there only one pup left?…has some dire fate befallen the other six? Are there still nine adults? So many questions…
I arrived here earlier, this late, sunny winter morning to be greeted by silence, the dog den looking deserted and no fresh tracks in the vicinity. If I had been an impatient sort, I would have assumed that the pack had moved on with all the pups, and driven away. But I sat. Used the time to sketch the table top I want to make, to hold a wash basin for the attic bedroom that is being restored at our burnt Harare house. And relished quiet time alone in the bush, my brain drained from a week of Harare house building, Save Valley Conservancy indigenisation concerns, and the sad event of Ray Sparrows’s funeral at Malilangwe yesterday. (Clive spoke in Shangaan to over two hundred appreciative mourners at the funeral, a moving history and tribute to this legendary old man of the Lowveld). All the while as I waited at the silent den, the faint but pungent smell of wild dogs drifting through my window warmed my senses. At last, my reward for patience…a crackle of grass and the sudden arrival of an adult, well behind the deserted den, followed by greetings between dogs I could not see in the deep grass.
Minutes after that, at twenty past eight, another adult trotted over the rocks, head held high , bearing a chunk of fresh meat at least two kilogrammes in weight! Then I saw one pup rush through the grass, and they both disappeared behind the rocks…the pup ecstatic and twittering with excitement. Now as I sit, I catch occasional glimpses of dogs here and there in the rocks. But can not see pups…
The crunch of bone drifts tantalizingly through the air..wish I could see who was doing the crunching!
I am frustrated at having to leave the dogs this morning, heading onwards to Hammond Ranch and then Chilo Gorge lodge overnight, for various meetings….but I will return tomorrow.

29th July 2014 at the den:
Back at the den it is late afternoon…
All is silent.
We sit.
And sit.
I stare hopefully at the deserted den mound…no pups materialize…
“Clive, perhaps a snake has bitten the pups, except for the one I saw…maybe the adults have moved away…” My words tail off….
This scenario is not unlikely…in these rocky areas large venomous snakes abound, and we have seen wild dog deaths from snakebite before.
After 30 minutes of patient listening and watching, the sun has started a rapid descent through the Mopani trees. We decide to drive slowly around the back of the den, where I last saw activity, and will approach on foot to look for tracks, if still no sign of the dogs.
Relief! As we circle, picking our way slowly through the dense Mopane trees at the base of the Kopjie, there are the telltale satellite ears of an adult lying in the grass, then another, and yet another, peering over a rocky outcrop at us…and suddenly the grass comes alive with one, two then all seven pups, as they head for a termite mound that we have not noticed…is this the new den?
It seems so, as they disappear rapidly ….must be a hole there somewhere. The adults nonchalantly stroll close to us, peering at us and acknowledging our arrival but relaxed. Only a soft growl from the unseen but ever vigilant Alpha female betrays her position in long grass near to the termite mound.
Within minutes of our arrival, the pack has melted away into the cool dusk, hunting for supper while the Alpha female remains, cautiously popping her head above the rim of the termite mound, where we now discover a hole and see the last pup dive down into the depths. They will only come out again when the hunters return and they are called for supper…! We will have to leave before then…
Sitting in the gloom, chatting quietly and watching birds prepare for night, I am deeply content. All is well in the Nyarushangas pack’s world, at least for today….
Lions have called distantly every night since I have been back at Senuko, an ever present threat for pups and adult dogs alike. But for the moment the second den is peaceful, undiscovered and safe.

30th July 2014 at the den:
Cloud, born 2012, is the only adult I see at the new den when I arrive late afternoon, at 5 pm.
The pups are at the den entrance, sheepish at my arrival, and rapidly retreating down the hole. One pup, gorgeous white and black blotched front paws, and braver than the rest, stares at me for long moments before melting away to safety. This is him on the left…..

masi as a pup 2014 lo res.JPG
Cloud paces, staring eastwards…is she alone at the den, yearning for the return of the hunting pack?
No…I hear rustling of grass, see movement of shrubbery on the far side of the mound. This is where I have seen the Alpha female resting yesterday, so perhaps she is lying there again.
Long minutes of silence, peace and solitude lull me. I fall into bitter sweet thoughts…could thus be my last chance to sit alone, on Senuko, at a African wild dog den? Recent developments regarding the indigenisation of Save Valley Conservancy properties could mean that Clive and I might lose our home on Senuko, depending on how National Parks and Ministry of Environment implement new policies. My sincerest hope is, whatever decisions are made for the future of this unique wilderness area, contiguous to the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area and home to so many endangered and threatened species in Zimbabwe, that those decisions will uphold sustainable conservation practices. These wilderness areas are not just our heritage, the community’s heritage, or Zimbabwe’s heritage, they are unique ecosystems which are a world asset. A world in which Space for all species is an ever-shrinking commodity. My reverie is punctuated by muffled baby growls emanating from the hole as siblings tussle down there in the dark.
As deeper dusk descends, a rustle heralds the movement of a dog, and indeed I see the Alpha female appear from her bed on the far side of the mound. She climbs to the apex of the mound, staring westwards for long minutes, then lies down there. A Queen on her hillock.
I write. She sits.
Then, as real darkness rubs up against a sickle moon descending in the west, and just as I decide to leave, she jumps up and approaches the den entrance, softly whining, calling the pups. Four come piling out, white patches shining bright in the dark, but immediately they see the shape of my vehicle, the object of their caution earlier, they heap up in the entrance to their burrow, refusing to follow their mother who unconcernedly strolls away. They are careful, timid little things, a good sign for their future survival in a dangerous world. As I watch, a simple rustle in the grass near the den electrifies them, and they dive back down their bolt hole as one! Gone.

31st July 2014 at the den:
7.30 am at the den no pups to be seen…but I spot Junior, a male born in 2009, walking over the distant rocks. Then another tawny dog, hard to see who in the deep grass. So at least some of the pack is here…have they hunted successfully this morning? Can not see their bellies, or if there is blood on their necks…
These Nyarushanga dogs are very casual with my vehicle, not even deigning to lift their heads from resting places in the long grass when I arrive, so it is extremely difficult to spot which dogs actually are present.
I guess that the pups heard my car arriving and hid down their hole.
Dreaming, writing and eating my banana muffin, I am content to wait.
At last Starbum, named so by our granddaughter Jade, when we visited the den weeks ago, because of the white star shapes on his left hindquarters, comes to the den. He calls the pups, who come tumbling out, and then he lies close to me! A beautiful animal. I wish Jade and her sister Rayne were here to admire Starbum and the pups with me. They are at school for the week. Jade, at seven years old, is already a wise, sensitive little soul, with a fascination of for all things living, ranging from her pet guinea pigs, rabbits, frogs and dogs, to all in this, the wilderness, around her. She happily puts up with me sitting for hours watching wild dogs, where other observers would get restless and bored…
The pups mill about for a while, playing, but keep a safe distance from me. When they retire into the hole, the last one in carries a plaything, a chunk of chewed wood…
After 15 min of silence, suddenly all is action,
A collared male, Wolf, comes running to the den and, whining, calls the pups out.
They are whimpering with excitement, tails stiff in the air, as he regurgitates meat for them and they leap into the food.
The Alpha female also rushes in and eats.
The whole pack erupts from the long grass, running and bounding as the pups chase after them.
The action flows through the thick winter grass, and within minutes the pack is dispersed among the rocks at the base of the Kopjie, much to the alarm of the spurfowl family who reside nearby, and who stutter with indignation for the next half hour as I watch dogs moving about the slopes, and pups clambering over rocks….
The alpha male is mobbed by eager pups, and regurgitates for them on the distant rocks. Through my binoculars I see that the collared male, and the Alpha female, have both got pink tinged necks.
So, the Alpha female hunted with the pack this morning…
As the morning sunlight catches the pink ruff of her neck, I see that her muzzle is touched with grey…a wise old girl…..
The Alpha female is a cautious mother, always the first to growl warning at any strange presence or sound. Now she follows the progress of her adventurous pups with her eyes, then climbs the rocks behind them, ever close, ever vigilant.

1st August 2014 at the den:
A Black eagle perches on the topmost boulder of the Kopjie overlooking the den, late afternoon. It is mobbed by swifts….
Would a Black eagle pick up a wild dog pup? Clive thinks so.
We drive around the Kopjie towards the dog den and spot three klipspringers poised like ballerinas on a steep boulder, Mother, Father and junior. Lovely to see these delicate little antelope so at home in their rocky world.
‘Watch out for the Black eagle, klippies’…..we have seen a black eagle, the female of the mated pair that nest there every year, pick up a young Klipspringer at Chilojo Cliffs in Gonarezhou National Park.

To a casual passer by all looks deserted as we arrive at the den site, but I know how these dogs keep their heads down in the grass, even when the vehicle comes and goes…so we wait.
And wait.
The waiting game is suspenseful for me…any day the Alpha female could decide to move the growing pups on to a new den, and I know that the sad afternoon will arrive when no more dogs are to be seen at this site…
Ha! …a welcome growl rolls out of the grass after long minutes…she is aware of us, and the bit of noise we are making…I am pleased to hear her voice. The babies must be down the hole.
The second swarm of bees that I have heard today flies overhead, a humming warning that they are on the move, with the warmer weather.
A last…Starbum arrives at the den, checks the entrance but does not call the pups out…he is full bellied, bloated.
Then he lies down very close to the vehicle. What a gorgeous animal he is. As I admire him, in comes the young unnamed female, born 2013, straight to the den. She peers down the hole, then wanders over and picks up a meaty bone lying nearby..looks like a rib. Bearing it to a grassy patch, she lies down and devours it. We identify her as one of the two adult dogs in the Nyarushanga pack that had remained unnamed in the records of Dr. Rosemary Groom and the Lowveld Wild Dog Project, the other being the young male now called Starbum. So, we shall call her Eve, because, as Clive says, she picked up a rib bone!
This bone would not be lying around if hungry pups were needing it…they must be down the hole deep in full-bellied slumber!
Along comes Lupas, also a youngster from 2013, collared and tawny. He too sports a bloated tummy…the morning’s hunt must have been a good one. morning. Perhaps kudu was on the menu…
Very cautious of us, Lupas growls, approaches the den entrance and peeps down, but soon moves away.
Eve returns to the hole and digs energetically, so that dust and clods of earth come flying out in an excess of housekeeping!
Surely the pups would have been roused by all this activity…still no sign of them. Then we hear the twitter of other adults and baby growls from behind the den mound, at the base of the Kopjie. That is obviously where they are spending the afternoon….
Judging by the amount that has been eaten today, the pack probably will not need to hunt tonight.
By 5.30 the dogs are still heard to be active in the vicinity of the rocks, no hunting for them tonight.

2nd August 2014 at den:
On the road to the den I see two Slender mongooses together, black tipped tails held aloft in distinctive question mark shapes, as they flick through the long grass. Normally solitary creatures, I notice these two in particular because in the last few weeks I have seen no less than three pairs out and about..perhaps it is mating season for mongooses.
This morning the Black Eagle is still perched on its vantage point above the den, highlighted by early morning sunlight and orange rocks.
A magnificent sight…yet another of the endangered species that make the Save Valley Conservancy their home.
Misheck, one of the AWCF dog scouts, is at the old den site when I arrive, having just returned from leave. He has moved his camera trap from the old to the new den site. He has seen four or five adults this morning, and has been assuming that the pups are down the hole – I warn him that the adults may have moved the pups from the termite mound up into sheltering rocks, judging by what we observed yesterday.
He goes off on his trusty motorbike and I begin my vigil at the den. All is very quiet…I feel that the pups are not ‘at home’. No hint of baby growls or squeaks from the entrance.
Wonder if the presence of the Black eagle has spurred the adults to move the vulnerable pups from open ground to rocky shelter…protection from aerial attack….
I sit and sketch the termite den, enjoying my solitude….
Day dreaming into my sketch, I happen to glance up at the eagle’s eyrie. It is no longer there.
The sudden eruption of Spurfowl stutters and squirrel chirrups alerts me…are the dogs moving around, out of my sight…?
No, this is more than a dog alert, as two Go Away birds fly over and set up a chorus of ‘G’way!’ I look up as a shadow passes over me, and here is the Black eagle in all it’s full-spanned glory, soaring over the termite mound.
‘Keep hidden, puppies…’
Back to sketching, I while away long minutes, allowing myself to muse on the possible cleverness of the wild dogs in removing their pups into the rocks, away from easy access by the eagle…
Who in the pack hierarchy decides on these pack translocations…only the Alpha female? Or is it more of a communal instinct ?
Certainly yesterday the young dogs, Lupus and Eve, showed great concern at the den, peering down the empty hole, and Eve digging into the hole…were they making sure no pups were left stranded there after the family move?
Shortly a Spurfowl mother begins her plaintive ‘wheeee’, call, hunting for her dislocated babies in long grass, where they must have scattered with the fright of the eagle’s threat…when they locate the sound of her voice, they will fly up and drop in the grass at her feet like small ripe fruits…
After two hours of musing and sketching, the elusive wild dogs are still lying low… The eagle periodically calls and soars above me., creating hiccups and alarm among the squirrels. I realise I am hot, hungry…still in my winter pajama layers from the cold early start this morning, and no breakfast yet…just a mug of freshly brewed local La Lucie coffee on the run!
Where else would I be so lucky as to be able to fall out of bed and visit the Wild dog den still wearing my pajamas and old sheepskin slippers?!
If I had a breakdown, I would be a funny sight traipsing through the bush.
I depart homewards in my pajamas, to begin a long overdue, busy day of clearing out all our cupboards and attic, so much stuff accumulated over years, plus much valuable clothing that incredible friends and well-wishers have given Kelli in Harare after our house fire, in which she lost every thing she possessed!
So much of this does not fit her, and is extra to our needs, and so we will share it with all the staff who work at Senuko. Our gain is their gain.

‘Farewell for today, dog den…..’

Possibly the end of another era in the eventful lives of the Nyarushanga Pack; the beginning of the more nomadic way of life they follow as soon as the pups are robust enough to follow the adults on their daily wanderings.
We will see what the camera trap records over the next few days.

3rd August 2014 at the den:
Driving in to the den, I see no Black eagle. With him not around, perhaps the wild dogs are back in the termite mound…
Yes!….I drive slowly up to the area and find two pups staring at me from the entrance…then I see the Alpha female and her mate, Foxy, just ahead of me in the grass. She is intent on rolling in some irresistible smell ahead of me in the grass, and he closely accompanies her, nose touching her rump as she walks away from me.
She walks past the den and all the pups eagerly stream out and follow her. She flops down in the shade but soon leaps up when the babies all rush up to her, hoping to suckle! No chance! She growls at them then continues from grass clump to grass clump, sniffing…has there been a predator near the den during the night? The way she sniffs high on various grass stalks could suggest hyena….I am amused to see the pups copying her sniffs!
It will be interesting to see what nocturnal secrets the well-placed camera trap might show….
They all proceed up to the rocks, and I see her still sniffing at clumps, then she urinates , followed closely by the Alpha male who urinates in the same spot as she has. The pups mill around, exploring and doing puppy stuff, ambushing and tussling with each other. One picks up a limp piece of grass-covered meat, I guess remnants from this morning’s hunt, and runs about teasing the others with it.
Starbum returns, coming close to me to check the den entrance, and as he walks away again I am struck anew by his magnificent white markings. Our wild dogs in the Save Valley Conservancy, and many that I have seen in Gonarezhou, have such high predominance of pure white and black patches in their coats, compared to the more tawny dogs that I have watched in Botswana and seen photos of in East Africa, that I wonder if this is in response to the more wooded, rocky terrain here in the Conservancy, as opposed to the more arid open grasslands of those other places….?
Athough the Alpha male is relatively tawny, this litter of pups have inherited fabulous white markings, their forelegs dappled and spotted as if with thick white cream, fresh milked!
Perhaps the propensity for white colour us a dominant gene…..all to the good…our dogs are very spectacular! Very paintable!
After Starbum returns to them in the rocks, the pack, with pups, melts away into the rocks of the Kopjie, out of my sight and hearing.
For the next hour I write, ponder and enjoy my solitude. Winter sunshine warms my back as I lean against the open window. After one and a half hours I hear a rustle….two small puppy faces peer at me over the top of the termite mound…then, pretending that they are figments of my imagination, they sneak low down through the long grass to dive into their den. Clever, cautious little things. I hope this caution serves them well in the challenges ahead that they face, growing up with predators such as lions, hyenas, eagles, and yes, people…

A Barred owl calls suddenly, plaintively, behind me.

Go Away birds and Spurfowl sound an alarm in the distance.

Then closer, closer, a Go Away bird right above me shouts..echoed by a network of alert friends…and squirrels start chattering excitedly…..I look for the Black eagle. Can not see it, but then I hear it, calling louder and louder, flying above and out of my sight. I hope those pups who have not returned to the den are safe under rocks….

As I leave the den, my fond farewell glance, looking back through the trees towards the kopjie, reveals three young adults lying together on a flat rock, close huddled and heads on each others’ flanks as they casually dismiss me.

Late afternoon
Clive and I visit the den. No sign of life.
But I know better!
We drive away and explore the area, then return at 5pm. After sitting for half an hour, Clive says he thinks they are not here today…
Patience…
Time ticks by.
Clive jerks upright..a pup appears out of long grass, followed fast by three more, each dashing up to and diving into the den entrance.
Two more arrive, more relaxed in their approach and sitting for a while at the entrance to stare at us before disappearing. Six pups safe in the den….but where is number seven?
They soon re-emerge, one here, two there, scratching madly…there are probably fleas down there, and it is must also be getting a bit crowded, with all those fast growing bodies…
Losing their puppy look, they are miniature adults in their looks now, fully tricoloured with their tan markings having developed. They still have their engaging puppy habit of sitting on their haunches, hind legs sideways and plump bellies bulging. I never see the adults sit that way, who always either stand up or lie fully down.
Thinking about how endearing that plump bulge of puppy belly is, I think of the superb sketch that is used on a Painted Wolf Wines label..so cute..

Jeremy Borg of Painted Wolf Wines might be visiting us later in this year, thinking about another Pedals 4 Paws bicycle ride through our wild dog areas to raise money and awareness for African wild dogs, most exciting.
Still we wonder, where is number seven?
‘Eaten by the Black eagle?’ says Clive.
As we wait for number seven to appear or not appear, we hear the ‘Hooo, hooo’ of a calling dog. Are the pack hunting close by?
Then there is a twittering and commotion in the grass as two young adults arrive, escorting the last pup. Those pups in the den rush out, and subdued greetings are given all round, but no regurgitation of food. My guess is that pup number seven found himself left alone, far from the den, and sent a distress signal – which his older siblings answered, coming fast from their resting places in the rocks to rescue him and show him home…
After half an hour, an adult dog runs towards the pups. We can not see much in the deep dusk, but we do see that a small amount of food is regurgitated for the excited pups. Hardly enough for one, let alone seven, and they run to and fro searching the grass for any tiny morsel they may have missed. They are hungry.
Another older sibling, one of last years pups, rushes in at the babies, head low, threatening them to stay near the den. They seem not to take her disciplinary action very seriously, giving way to her reluctantly and certainly not submissive like they would be towards their mother or father!

Mars, the war-like, red-looking “star”, which of course is a planet, graces my night sky tonight, very near the Moon.
4th August at the den:
I arrive by ten o’clock and see the Alpha female and Foxy standing close together in my track. They stroll away into the rocks, lying down together on a flat top ….the alpha female cleverly lies with her eyes level behind a shelf of rock which hides most of her body but allows her to ‘sleep with one eye open’ on the den entrance! She is distinctive even at this distance, her left ear deeply scalloped from some old injury.
She never fully dozes, periodically lifting her head high to listen, and test the wind….

Late afternoon at the den, I arrive and photogaph a female, Cape, born 2012, who sports a scalloped right ear, a healed wound, plus another young dog standing in the road, who both come up behind my car as I drive past and to the den entrance. I make a mental note: ‘Cape has a damaged right ear, the Alpha female a damaged left ear. Legacies of fast and furious hunts through thorny shrubs?’
The pups are sitting at the den looking at me, then they retire. The two adults come past me and call out the pups, leading them away from the den. All except Tail End Charlie, who, last out of the den hesitates and pops in and out like a hack in the box for ten minutes, torn between following his mates or eyeing my car! Eventually he braves it and creeps away from the den through the long grass, hoping I can not see him! I wonder if he was the one pup who got left behind and started yodeling for help last night….?
I see the little ones exploring the rocks.
A barred owl starts it trilling call.
The two adults decide to head off into the bush, going west. Vague disciplinary action on their part, rushing at the pups with lowered heads, does not do much good…the pups pay lip service, giving way and milling at the den, but as soon as the adults disappear into the deep grass, they egg each other on to venture forth again, each running faster and faster as it sees it’s mates do the same, and the last I see of the adventurous pups is their little white flag tails clambering up and among some distant rocks. They are now so far from the den that if a leopard or lion happens upon them, they will not make it back…..

No other adult dogs are evident at the den, so they must all be out hunting under Saturn, which is the bright “star” near the Moon tonight, a distinctive sight, not red like Mars. In the distance roosting baboons sound a half hearted alarm. Perhaps the hunting dogs passed beneath their trees…

After long minutes I hear the telltale rustle of little bodies, and here come the naughty babies bouncing back through the grass, periodically stopping to stare at me in shock, as if they never knew I was there!
I will make sure that they are all in the den before starting my engine to leave, not wanting to startle them too much. Cleverly, they sneak and creep around the back of their termite mound, forsaking their normal approach, and one by one they arrive at the entrance. Still unwilling to go to bed, (too many fleas?!), they potter about the vicinity. Perhaps they also feel the pangs of hunger, and are hoping for the early return of the hunters……..they do spend a lot of time staring off into the direction that the two adults took.
Darkness gathers.
A Rock hyrax sounds an alarm from the next large Kopjie…could be a leopard, or sight of the dogs which has triggered that.
These bad pups are not gathering at the den after all..they make extensive forays outwards. Their exploration of some more rocks creates hysteria in a spurfowl who is trying to go to bed. These intrepid little characters will soon be more than ready to begin learning to follow the adults on hunts, waiting somewhere safe for the final stages of each hunt, but venturing further and further each time.

I wonder if they will still be based at this den in six days time, by the time of the full moon, which is on Sunday 10th August…I love this week leading up to the blowzy brightness of the full moon…each dusk falls bringing a growing silvery light as the moon grows, which is ethereal and very satisfying to me. The night before the full moon is my favourite night, the sun dying with a glowing huge moon already risen, an unearthly light then pervades and it seems an enchanted hour till the sun’s last lights have died away.
I have noticed that the wild dogs hunt later and later each night as this light grows….we have often found them out and about at midnight on the night of a full moon!
Hunting is a matter of sight and sound foremost for them, they are not so reliant on smell.

5th August 2014 at the den
Before I leave for the dog den, I peer up into the narrow gap of our chimney and loud hissing greets me. Yes! I thought so…last night a slipping and sliding noise heralded the involuntary descent of yet another baby barn owl down the chimney flue, from the ledge inside the chimney where the adults persist in making their nest every year.. Wilson and Anderson help me to reach inside to maneuver the baby owl out, and he loses his bluster when exposed to us, sitting owlishly, pretending that we are not real. Wrapping him in a small blanket, I quickly sketch him, then I carry him upstairs and deposit him in the nesting box that I made three years ago, which has served as secondary home for many baby owls after their slide down the chimney. It is open to the front, and here his mother will find him and feed him tonight, tracking his calls.

baby barn owl.jpg
That done, I admire the herd of three hundred buffalo which have just arrived at our water hole to drink. A magnificent sight. Before I start the car, I let them drink, then once they have moved away I head off.

buffalo at Tsavene lo res.JPG
Round puppy ears give away the babies in the long grass behind the den as I look for them on my arrival.
They are used to the noise of the car now, and do not rush helter skelter for the den entrance.
As so often happens at this cooler time of day, 3.45pm, my arrival spurs the adult dogs to action, that plus possible thoughts of empty stomachs needing to hunt and eat…! Within minutes all is seeming chaos, adults and pups whirling and leaping through the grass. All adults defer to Foxy, heads low and necks stretched, licking avidly at his lips. The lower he holds his head, the lower they hold theirs, till they literally roll on the ground beneath him, twisting their bodies to stay lower than his, much like many tribal peoples’ acts of deference to their chiefs…
Wolf is particularly engaging with the babies, lying down on his side for them to jump all over him. He is very patient. He moves with a limp today, favoring his right forepaw. I hope it not too serious a wound, can not see swelling or blood.
After this initial flurry of social activity, all is quietness again…the pack collapses among the rocks, and the pups mill around, but Starbum lies close to me and the den, as usual.
By 4.30 Starbum rouses himself, and approaches the tree in which Misheck has placed the camera. He is fascinated or irritated by the sound of its clicks as it responds to the action of the pups in the entrance, I think.
He comes right up to the tree it is mounted on and, eagerly observed by the pups and the less adventurous adult members of his family, he rears up in all his spotted glory to bite at the straps holding it! He does this repeatedly, and I wonder what kind of photos it is taking…the inner linings of his pink mouth?! Can not WAIT to see those images!

camera attack! lo res.JPG

camera attck continues lo res.JPG

Everyone is spurred to action. The young adults are now intent and twittering, heads low, running side by side with outstretched necks as if yoked together. Pups are excited, but holding back as if they know they are not invited to this party….
The alpha female and her mate Foxy stand quietly together, but their imposing presence is tangible as a rock…the pack action eddies around them as she flicks her tail and he stands, chin against her rump.
Within minutes the pack has calmed down, taken stock of the planned hunt by some mysterious communications that I can only begin to imagine, and has melted as one into the Mopani woodland, white tail flags disappearing into the trees.
Cloud is the last adult to remain in the den vicinity, checking the pups, but then moves off slowly, following her pack.
The evening hunt has begun, directed no doubt by the Alpha pair. The pups and I remain behind and the pups remain hidden to me in a nest of long grass.
The Barred owl begins his ode to the coming night.
I sit and breathe. Just breathe.
I relish the scent of Wild dog, (some would not!), the faint rustles from the puppies’ resting place, the cool of the evening, and drongos and spurfowl greeting the evening.
Rock hyraxes yell alarms from distant rock outcrops, perhaps marking the passage of the hunting pack.
As I drive homewards at dusk, past the Senuko workshops, I come across a young rock hyrax (Dassie) trotting down the main dirt road, heading south and far from the shelter of a large Kopjie behind me! There are no other kopjies in the direction he is heading! This is an unusual sight, since rocks are the hyrax’s castle. When when I tell Clive, he says, ‘young male dassies leave their rocky birthplaces to search for females and establish new families. Spotting distant rock outcrops on the horizon, they make haste for these, at great risk. The Shangaans believe that sometimes the dassies mistake clouds billowing on the horizon for rock outcrops, and they set out for a Kopjie that is only a mirage…..’
Now I remember noticing the erupting cloud of smoke from a sugar cane field fire, on the horizon last night as I drove. I thought then how like a mountain it looked…did that little Dassie think the same!?

6th August 2014 at the den
When I park at the den at 4 pm all is seemingly deserted, and for a whole hour I sit alone, writing, sketching and wondering if the day has at last dawned when the pack takes the pups with them to a new, less permanent den site and they begin their career of learning to hunt. Ever hopeful, and hearing squirrels sounding an alarm from the nearby Mopani trees, I wonder if the pups are lying out there somewhere in the shade. Strange that the squirrels would be so stressed by the dogs though, who pose no real threat to them…
After a prolonged burst of squirrel curses, joined now by the anxious clucks of spurfowls, I look more closely around me. And see the cause of the alarm…the Black eagle is perched high on a Mopani tree close behind me. What an impressive sight, so near, so large, so black and white.
Perhaps the wild dogs are lying low because of this bird.
As I write, and look up again, it is soundlessly gone as if it never was. But now that I know it is there, my ear picks up the subtle chirrups of distant squirrels as it circles the far side of the Kopjie, and then, because I am watching for it, I am treated to the broad coal black span of its wings and pure white back as it flies silently past me, hugging the Kopjie and seeming to search the rocks, turning its head this way and that.
Of wild dogs…still no sight nor sound.
I hear a motor. It cuts. Eventually Misheck walks up behind me, having been arguing with his motorbike; faulty or dirty spark plugs, he thinks. He collects the camera trap, which is hanging rather precariously by its straps after Starbum’s attack last night! Heading northwards within the Conservancy, he will visit Humani ranch to retrieve a camera trap at a den there, and will proceed to Chishakwe Ranch, headquarters of the African Wildlife Conservation Fund. There, Dr Rosemary Groom and her able assistant Jess Watermeyer, will collate the data from the various camera traps that they monitor.
By 5.33 I make plans to leave, but think I hear the gruff warning growl of a dog somewhere in the distant Mopani…hope the pups are safe tonight, wherever they sleep….
Driving away from the den, I spot the male and female klipspringers in open ground, far away from the haven of their rock fortress. They must be hunting for green stuff to eat in all this winter-dry vegetation, and are so vulnerable- lucky that the Black eagle has probably gone to roost for the night!

The buffalo are still ensconced in the Mopani trees around our waterhole when I arrive home. Clive hopes they stay the night, and flatten the deep grass around our house. It is that dangerous time of year when smoke palls constantly blot the horizon. Smoke not just from distant sugar cane fires, but also from veld fires roaring in from the east. Our Senuko team has begun back burning fire breaks along our eastern boundaries, but the flatter the grass around our houses, the better….
When I awake in darkness at 2am, no power, the buffalo are munching and lowing near our bedroom. If they stay around, lions will soon follow…
Getting up let the Jack Russell’s out and to heat water on the gas for tea, I hear the distant rasp of a leopard, probably coming to our waterhole to drink. Watch out, Jack Russell’s!

The reassuring thumping and scratching of the baby owl in his box upstairs indicates that he is demolishing mouse remains.

7th August 2014 at the den
This evening, as I sit, waiting and writing, the den has a desolate air; the only sign of life has been a quartet of zebras at the base of the Kopjie and baboons meandering through the Mopani trees looking for a suitable roost for the night…
I really feel that the last two days have been the turning point, that the Nyarushanga pack has resumed the nomadic existence that they are so well suited for. For these far-ranging creatures, who love movement and distance, to be ‘on the move’ again after being tied for months to one place, must bring such a sense of rightness. The pups, about ten weeks old and strong as they now are, must also feel the intense joy of accompanying their elders into the wide world. Happy as I am for them, yet I am sad. Lonely.

8th August 2014 at Senuko:
Today we begin to clear fire breaks around our house, first ripping the roads to clear vegetation. At the end of a dry winter, the shoulder height golden grass looks beautiful, but it is deadly when a grass fire rushes through…
I photograph the tractor, ripping the earth. I shiver in anticipation of the flames to follow, even though the sun shines.
Fire has been such a force in our own lives;
Welcome when we huddle round the campfire on cold winter nights,
Welcome when we cook our food on Mopani fires in Harare and Senuko, having yet another power cut,
Welcome when we need to repair elephant-damaged water pipes in the field …
Unwelcome when it is burning the very fabric of our lives, tearing down the roof of our Harare house and destroying possessions, (not thankfully, lives),
Unwelcome when we had to fight the six metre high wall of flames which fronted a wild bush fire on our boundary years ago,
Unwelcome when a ball of fire roared through the tops of the Mopani woodland, jumped a waterhole and engulfed the living area of Senuko Lodge, burning it to the ground,
Unwelcome when it destroys all the grass and leaf cover that should feed the grazers and browsers until the next rains come.

I have a fascination with fire.
The stories told and the shapes presented in the flickering flames of a campfire or the roaring flames of a raging bushfire, enthrall me.

My more abstract paintings have always reflected fire, the terror and beauty of it;
A tall Mopani stump, all that is left of a once vibrant tree, burning at night like a vicious totem,
The black hieroglyphs of charred plants that float on the wind, created by the flames,
The monumental base of a rock that has been licked by fires uncountable over many hundreds of years,
The burnt silver butterflies lying in a sea of darkness that are Mopani leaves on charred grass.

As I now drive to the den, I think about how vulnerable young pups are to a bush fire. Birds nests, tortoises, giant land snails, all those who can not easily get away from the licking flames.
At the den, the haunting refrain of grey hornbills echoes through the Mopani. The termite mound seems empty of life. On my way in I have seen a group of young male impalas, accompanying a troop of baboons who climb the tall cathedral Mopani – I think they are searching for Mopani leaves infested with a certain scale insect which exudes a sweet sap. Yes! I confirm that as I stop and check some fallen leaves- there are the brown scale insects, clinging to the surface….
The dung of many buffalo lies over my tracks from last night.
I sit at the den. And wait. Clive this morning has said, ‘they have moved den’ – he wonders why I am even going to check, but now my patience is rewarded as I sit, and sit…..a growl emanates from the distant grass, and I see the white flash of a tail. They are out there somewhere, just no longer at the den mound….
Suddenly, I hear the distant interaction of the pack, returning from a hunt and being greeted ecstatically by the begging pups!
I drive towards the very large Kopjie behind the original den Kopjie, following the sound. In deep Mopani woodland I have to halt, too thick to drive through.
I can hear the sounds of feeding as the adults regurgitate meat for the pups. They are hidden to me in the Mopani, but the sound is a delight to me…all is well with the Nyarushangas…

9th August 2014 near the den:
Arriving late, 8.40 am…the dogs may have returned from hunting and fed the pups already, in which case we will not hear them.
We wait, I write…….

Last night I heard the baby owl energetically greeting his mother as she arrived with a rat. This morning Wilson discovered a freshly de-capitated rat outside my studio, beneath the spot where the adult owl often sits. She must have accidentally dropped this second rat after feeding her baby the first one! We put it in the box with the baby. He can snack on it at his leisure! An interesting rat, it has a short stumpy tail. Must look it up in the Reay and Smithers Mammals book.

Many elephants arrived at our empty waterhole last night. A cow herd with calves, they milled and shuffled sadly around the muddy remains, carefully checking our inlet pipe for any hint of fresh water. It was a terrible, helpless feeling watching them unable to drink after obviously having walked so far in anticipation of cool water. The pump at the Mkwasine river broke and was being fixed yesterday…no water available to fill the tanks and the waterhole. This sobering reality makes us realise yet again how fully we rely on piped water in this semi arid area. Our pipeline is so old, dating from the cattle era, that it is vulnerable, and because it is shallow, it is constantly being ripped up by the thirsty elephants.

As I write, I hear the Black eagle calling, with a squirrel fast to yell the alarm! Can not see it.
Clive and I decide that the den is truly deserted. We walk up to the entrance, no recent tracks.
The Black eagle graces us by soaring low over our heads. He could tell us where the dogs were…!
Wending our way homewards we use an old fence line track and immediately get a slashed tyre from a short metal pole hidden in long grass. Bang goes one of the two good tyres we had left on the vehicle. We gloomily change it for a worn, old tyre, wondering how we are going to afford getting a new set for all the long distance travel we have to do in the next months.
As they say in Zimbabwe, we will have to ‘make a plan!’

10th August, our Jack Russell’s Dzidzi and Shonge catch a rat behind our fridge, same kind as mummy owl is feeding her baby..looking it up, we find that it is a Pouched rat. Mostly solitary and living in burrows.

Still no water in the pipeline; zebras stamp on the hard ground and thirsty giraffe pace accusingly on the fringes of the Mopani trees that surround our waterhole.

At dusk, we ascend Sunset Rock, light a small fire and watch the full moon rise, complete with rabbit. Sharing the beauty, the peace, with family and neighbours.

15th August 2014 at Senuko:
At last water is running to our waterhole, and many happy warthogs and kudu are arriving to drink.
A baboon troop, accompanied by many impala, are regular visitors, and entertain me endlessly with their antics.
Misheck returned to the vicinity of the dog den recently, and discovered the small body of one of the Nyarushanga pups. On hearing about it, my worry was that disease such as rabies had killed it, putting the rest of the pack in danger as well….
Taking it back to Rosemary, they decided it was likely to have died from some trauma such as being hit by a vehicle. So very sad, but at least not a contagious disease…..
Misheck has since spotted the nine adult dogs and six pups on Humani Ranch.

 

2015

June 26th 2015

The Nyarushanga pack has denned near Tsonza, a pan on Senuko.
Clive and I drive in late in the afternoon with Cain, who has found them after following tracks from Tsonza Pan.
A lone dog lies near the den, nestled at the base of a small granite Kopjie in beautiful russet Mopani woodland. She is clever, lying low and affording us no view of her body, save a large shallow chunk out of her ear.
Next morning I eagerly arrive and find two males lying together on the road near the den- one is the Alpha Male, aged and wise, with multiple holes in his well-worn ears, who soon wisely retires deep into the grass where he is no longer visual, but not before I notice that he has a swollen tummy- someone ate well today at least! The other is a handsome youngster with a pretty white star shape on his right hind leg, who is very curious about me, the camera trap at the den that Cain has set up, and the world in general! He approaches the termite den constantly and stares intently into the depths of the den hole that I can see on the near side of the mound. He rears up and glares at Cain’s camera trap which is strapped high to a tree. He starts to dig on the far side of the mound from me, must be another entrance hole there… And as he digs, powder-white dust envelope another dog lying hidden to me in the grass on the termite mound- she jumps up and moves away from his excavations! It is the Alpha female, she with the shallow chunk out of her ear and pendulous swollen teats….
Soon ” Star” comes back to the near entrance and then the dust really starts flying, as he repeatedly dives down the burrow and sends out clouds, monsoons, of fine dust, emerging periodically to stare at me, coated like a powder puff!
Low growls announce the arrival of two young males, who are surprised by my presence. I recognize one immediately, he of the gorgeous white-splashed coat, who I first noticed as a bold pup, and who I saw near our Tsavene waterhole about six weeks ago. Then I named him  “Masi” -Changana for milk….
(At that time six weeks ago Clive and I watched the pack consume an impala…and saw that the Alpha female was pregnant, tired and lying down a lot! It is so exciting and heartwarming to see her now, full teats betraying the fact that she has a nest of tiny pups deep down there in that burrow).

Masi-“he who looks like milk”….

Mase - white as milk lo res.JPG
How many and how are they, I wonder…I am surprised that in all the time I have sat here this morning I have not seen her descend to feed them….hope all is well down there….
Maybe the lack of hunting success today has dictated that she feels disinclined to feed them till she gets a full belly of food herself!)
Masi is funny, circling me and climbing rocks for a better view. He eats grass and pulls at sticks as if showing off, but then vomits it up and rolls in the mess! The alpha female runs up and begs half heartedly, but all the dogs this morning are lean, no good hunting for them yet! So she gives up begging and rolls in his mess as well, then runs back to guard the den entrance, after conducting her toilette!
Shortly, a collared male dog arrives, gives me the once over and joins his siblings. The four youngsters are restless, scanning the horizon, snapping twigs in their jaws, and nudging each other to come closer to my new presence in their world.
Now it is the turn of another of them, Masi’s friend who arrived with him, to eat grass and vomit, encouraging ‘Star” to roll in the mess after his friend has done so!

June 27th 2015

Nyarushanga pack in the morning:
arriving at the den with Jade and Rayne, it is a misty morning and we have already seen zebra and wonderful aardvark excavations en route.
Now as we arrive, the rocks at the den are festooned with the four young males, posing like sphinxes….

previous blog of elephants, wild dogs and full moons:

https://wildlifeandwilddogs.wordpress.com/2015/07/01/of-elephants-wild-dogs-and-full-moons-good-friends-venus-and-jupiter/

IMG_5967 cropped lo res
As we arrive they leap off and dash lithely through the grass, and the Alpha Male stands up from where he has been resting. He moves away, with an injured back leg held a few inches off the ground. Hope that will heal….
Parking, we spot the Alpha female in her usual spot, lying on the far side of the mound. Within minutes all the four young males are back, bounding along and playing with each other, dashing up to the den entrance and rousing the Alpha female to greet them. But no regurgitation…and no obviously full bellies. They leap onto the rocks and play with each other. In the early morning sunlight they are a dream of gold, white and black against the grey rocks. A painting…….
At last! The Alpha female stands staring down the far den entrance and we hear the unmistakable squeaks of tiny pups! They are above ground! But out of our view behind the grass, save for a few tantalizing glimpses that Jade gets, of little round ears. The young males immediately approach and all stand staring down into the den, whining and greeting the babies, with the benign approval of the Alpha female who watches on.

4th July 2015

A few days ago I spent three wonderful early morning hours at the den with Alistair Pole and Neil Birnie. A joy to share these special animals with like minded conservationists…and what a display the yearlings put on- posing against the Mopani leaves as if fully aware of their striking good looks!

Alistair’s photos of Masi say it all…an exquisite animal!

Mase poses...lo res.jpg

Mase- white as milk lo res

Masi – such a beautiful  boy….

Mase- portrait lo res.jpg

Something off in the deep grass, out of our vision, seemed to be worrying them, and at that point I hoped nothing ominous had happened to any of the pups, as yet unseen by us….
The threat of lions always hangs in the back of my mind.
A visit to the den the next day with Anderson and Wilson, confirmed that pups were still in the den- and Anderson spotted puppy ears…but we still could not count numbers. Did not sound like many pups, the whimpers and squeaks emanating from the den being quite subdued. The Alpha male lay in the grass with his head on the rump of his mate, the Alpha female.

Now, at last, we have a number- A sighting of only 4 pups at the den this morning with Clive and the girls-all healthy and well fed, the full bellied adults with the bloodied necks that signify a successful hunt. No sign of the Alpha female.
Now in the afternoon I arrive to find the yearlings scattered-resting in the gold grass, and tucked against the granite grey rocks. I sit quietly, watch, and muse…..gathering my thoughts and inspiration for the gold grass, Mopani leaf and dog paintings I am working on…

Dogs in Mopani 2, acrylic on loose canvas, 70 x 105 cm lo res

Dogs in Mopani 1, acrylic on loose canvas, 70 x 105 cm lo res
The waning but still plump moon still hangs bright in the late night skies this week, so I wonder if the dogs will hunt late with the moon…especially since we saw them so obviously well fed this morning….
As if to prove my thoughts, suddenly a round-bellied dog rises from where he has been hidden to me in the grass, the Alpha male, and he hurriedly makes his way towards another dog who has stood up to urinate…the Alpga female. It is fascinating and amusing to watch him as he endeavors to dribble his urine on every blade of grass that she has urinated on! He even stands briefly on his two front legs, both hind legs in the air, to get the angle just right! They lie down together. Mase appears from the rocks and lies nearer the quiet den mouth.

 

 

Nyarushanga pack 4th June 2016
4 pm
A termite mound at the base of one of the twin hills between which the road heads to Sunset Rock and Eland Pan is the new den of the Nyarushanga Pack, discovered by Misheck 10’days ago. He has placed a camera trap near the entrance.
On my solitary way to the den, having brought the little girls Jade and Rayne here earlier, I pass a herd of female impala, glowing gold in the late afternoon light between the Mopani tree trunks.
Where is their male escort?
I wonder if one of the two impala rams we saw fiercely rutting in this area 10 days ago, were the victims of the wild dog attack that resulted in one of them being eaten before our eyes at our nearby bush house, Tsavene!?
Highly likely.

The Alpha female, distinctive with the shallow notch out of her left ear is at the same post as we saw her at this morning, on an elevated shelf of the den mound, guarding the entrance to her burrow and intent on listening to her pups below ground…born we think 10 days ago.
A very tawny pale and beautiful male is posted, staring at me, on the very top of the high and well-grassed termite mound – a tiny black bar near end of very matted tail. He is growls at my cautious approach and I stop very far away. Is he the Alpha male? No.

Yearlings move among the steep rocks of the Kopjie directly behind the den, affording me mere tantalizing glimpses of their lithe gold, black and white bodies.
After 15 minutes the Alpha female stands and stretches then disappears down the hole that is at her feet…intriguing to imagine how many tiny babies are huddled down in the cool den waiting for mum’s warm teats.
She soon re emerges…if she fed them it was very brief!
Spurfowl clack their evening going-to-bed refrain. Or perhaps movement of the yearlings unseen by me have disturbed them….
Drongos hawk insects from high branches and long tailed starlings are vociferous. A pack of barbets hops towards me, hunting as fiercely for insects as any dog oak, flushing unwary insects into each other’s efficient beaks. The sudden eruption of Go Away by a team of Go Away birds frights the barbets into the safety if a tall dead tree near the den.
Pandemonium reigns among the distressed Go Away birds as everyone dives for cover. I can not for the life of me see what the problem is! Maybe it is my car?! Or a raptor flying above me….arrow marked babblers arrive hunting in the wake of the barbetsAt 4.57 the alpha female goes down the den again then comes a ale dog to peer down after her…I hear a growl…is she warning him off? He sits nearby. Then comes a dark female to the entrance. Peers down. Whining. Answered by chittering from the alpha female below ground. Then comes alpha male ..deep notch out of right ear, to look down then wander off to the left of me… Joining a group of yearlings I had not noticed, they greet and roll, scratch and rub against the bushes. The dark female repeatedly whines at the mouth of the den, answered by intense chittering from the mother. Down through the steep rocks comes a gorgeous male, Masi, white blotched and beautiful. He skirts the den mound and rushes left to join his pack.
Waving tails and sinuous bodies flow around each other then all goes quiet as, by 5.10, they all melt away around the base if the hill. On the hunt I guess. I notice a white flag waving and there is the alpha female back out of the den and staring after her departed hunters. Her lonely vigil at the den waiting for her team to bring her sustenece, has begun. She is alone…
But no! She is alone after all!
-the dark female appears suddenly to growl at me, then all the dogs material use around me and I try to count them in the deep grass, only getting six but then it seems that one more arrives, the collared male, Lupas, from last year?
Lots of activity around the den ensues -and when the Alpha male approaches the den entrance the Alpha female allows him to lean into the hole and count his new babies! She has not allowed any other dogs to do this ….
I decide to leave them in peace, as this is the first day I have sat with them and I do not want them to feel overwhelmed by my presence, even though I have kept well distant from the den mound. They may even be reluctant to go hunting due to my presence- often wild animals show very subtle signs of anxiety which us mere humans can not discern, so I would rather err on the side of caution and be as unobtrusive as possible until they get used to my vehicle. One of the pack is digging away at the top of the mound as I leave at 5.30.

5. Nyarushanga Pack 5th June
This morning I have my assistant dog watchers 8 year old Jade and 6 year old Rayne with me, all straight out of bed and still in our pajamas! And cuddled with blankets.
7.42 am – a group of zebra and three curious giraffe greet us at the den.
Contrary to some people’s belief, I have found that wild dog dens do not necessarily mean that all animals desert the area in fear..and the dogs’ preferred prey is easier, smaller meat such as impala.
Jade and Rayne get a chance to sketch the giraffes before they move away from us.
The Alpha female is posted in her usual place. Wonder if the pack has hunted already and are now lying up close by…but I see no other sign of ears or tails- they are probably still hunting on this cool winter morning.
The mum sits, scratches then stands and has a long stretch. She does a tour of the den area after checking on her pups…I see her moving around the steep slope off the hill behind the den. She keeps stopping to scan the horizon. Then at 8.04 am she goes down to feed her babies.
8.07 she emerges again from the den.
She climbs to the peak of the den mound and stares out, hungry and expectant, lying there for 10 minutes then back to curl up in her usual place. By 8.56 there is still no sign of the pack…we all doze intermittently.
Drawings of the den and written stories occupy the little girls while I watch the den and hand out editorial advice.

Jade’s Blog:

Jade's blog lo res.JPGNot much editing needed- their stories are excellent!

Rayne’s blog:

rayne's blog lo res.JPG
9.11 back she goes to the top of the hill, then down to her pups. I see her back out of the hole chewing on something…does she collect the droppings from her pups in the burrow?
9.14 am: After mouthing a while at whatever she has collected from the hole, she goes down again, out of my sight.
9.18: up she comes from feeding her pups, and retires to lie on a shelf of cool rock behind the den, her usual sandy shelf being too hot now as the morning wears on. The little girls have uncomplainingly fallen asleep, patient in the face of my determination to see the pack return and feed the hungry female! But even I have to concede defeat and we return for a much needed breakfast. Where are the hunters? Why have they not come home….?
Nyarushanga Pack
6th June 2016
After visiting the den again last night and again seeing only the Alpha female at her lonely vigil, I wonder how the whole pack are doing. Why did we not see them through the whole of yesterday? Perhaps for some reason hunting is difficult and they are struggling to find food- but I can not really believe that, given the amount of fat impala we see on the way to the den!
I drive to the den at 9.30 am, and at first I am excited and relieved to see the dogs, including the Alpha female, strung out in the track near the den, as if greeting me, but my heart rapidly sinks as I realise that they are all distressed and staring in one direction, away from me and towards a point beyond the den mound. Mase and his siblings climb onto a rock for better vantage, heads held high.

the distressed pack lo res.jpg Instinctively I do a head count-the Alpha male is absent. Where is he? As if to echo my rising concern, the Alpha female runs towards my car, almost as if trying to impart a message to me, and she begins hoooo-calling -head held low to the ground as the cries flow from her throat. That eerie and plaintive sound, a sound which I usually welcome when out following dogs on the hunt, now chills me to the very marrow. Something is very, very wrong.
Heard in the broad light of morning when the pack is not hunting or calling errant pups, it is a sure sign of deep distress.My mind races….what has happened to the pups? Where is the Alpha male?

All the dogs except for the Alpha Male (Where IS he?!) are intent on staring at a certain area…..

the sad onlookers lo res.jpg
My first thought as I frantically scan the bush with my binoculars, is Lion.
My ever present fear is that lion find our dog dens and will kill pups and dogs if they can. We lost an Alpha female from our Maverick pack years ago this way, a traumatic time for us, for the pack and their five week old pups who were left behind. But that is for another story. Right now it is the Nyarushangas who are in trouble. Deep trouble. Disturbed by my arrival, a Tawny eagle and an immature Bateleur flap upwards from where they have been on the ground, betraying the position of a dog’s body to my shocked eyes. Without needing my binoculars, I can tell it is Foxy, the Alpha male, his flanks slowly rising and falling…
My guts feel as twisted as my emotions as I slowly drive closer, not wanting to emerge from my car since the pack are not used to human forms, but are relaxed with my vehicle’s sound and shape. If Foxy is only slightly injured or sick I do not want to stress him unnecessarily. As I get closer, I realise that he is far beyond feeling much stress. I see the terrible bleeding wounds that lace his lower spine, and his right forepaw paddles at the air, sweeps the dust, then stills as his slow breathing gets even slower….
My mind struggles through the molasses of my emotions…I force myself to take quick photos, to work out if he can possibly be saved, to try to imagine what has happened to him. My first thought is still lion. Scuff marks surround his body, such as a lion would create…
There is also the chance that he could have been hit by a vehicle and dragged himself somehow back to the den. His back looks broken to me, lacerated…but those could also be teeth puncture wounds…
Through my tears I peer around for evidence of lion, but am not going to get out of my car and disturb the scene. Then I spot a telltale lion footprint beyond his poor, broken body….

the broken Alpha male lo res lion print.jpg
I back away in tears and slowly drive back past the den,  past the clustered and subdued pack. The Alpha female continues hoo-calling as I leave, not going to her den but circling round it and staring towards her fallen mate.
Rushing home I contact Jess Watermeyer, wild dog researcher for AWCF in the Save Valley Conservancy, and alert her to my finding…I can not see how Foxy can survive this trauma….then Clive and I head back to the den.
As we arrive, there is no sign of the rest of the pack. Where are they?
Driving carefully up to Foxy, we see that he has breathed his last and faded away. I am relieved that his misery is over.
Clive looks at the wounds, turns the body once, viewing the scuff marks surrounding Foxy with experienced eyes…lion teeth punctured and broke Fox’s back, and the scuff marks and a lone telltale footprint of a young male or a female lion betray the cause of Foxy’s death. Looking around, we can imagine that it is likely the lion or lions were disturbed by my arrival, if they were still in the area. They may have watched me as I arrived, and my only hope is that they did not have time to investigate the den itself too closely, or that if they did, our presence would put them off coming back….
As if to corroborate our musings, we see Masi appear behind us from the direction of the road, closely followed by the Alpha Female and the rest of the pack. She still calls constantly, forlornly, as if crying into the very depths of the earth for her lost companion, the father of her pups.
As we depart to give them some space, the milling pack again seems to come around car in some kind of needy greeting, almost considering our shape as a safe zone, in their world turned suddenly upside-down. The confused yearlings try to engage each other in social play, stimulated by the head-lowered approach of the Alpha female who seems to turn to them to console her.

the pack consoles the Alpha female lo resjpg.jpgClive and I discuss this later- it seems that they understand that we have no part in the stress they are experiencing.

After discussion with Jess of AWCF we sadly leave the dogs to grieve in peace, and later on Misheck merely moves the body a few hundred meters away from the den after collecting samples for DNA and blood analysis.

We are stressed by having to leave the ranch to meet clients at Chilo, and when I arrive back in the Conservancy on the 10th of June, and dash back to the den, all seems deserted. Cain and Wilson visited the den on Tuesday 7th June and moved the carcass of poor Foxy about 200 metres away. That day they saw the pack interacting with each other around the den. Have the pack now moved the pups? If so, it would have been a difficult job. Not even three weeks old, the babies would need to be carried all the way to a new den site. It would have to be close by.

I drive along the dirt road in the dusk . Stopping all the while to sit and listen….listen for the sound of twittering or growling that would betray the position of a new dog den….nothing.
I have two large and speckled nightjars hawking around my car , flitting up and swooping down to squat with bobbing heads in the soft dust of the road, Freckled nightjars I think.

11th June, 2016

By 6.15 am I am waiting and listening at the den-still seems deserted. Ground hornbills are the only things I hear. The camera trap hangs mutely in its carnage point. Maybe it will tell us part of the story….Only zebra tracks crossed my tracks of the night before, although Anderson saw fresh dog spoor on the main road last night. Lions have roared loudly at our house early this morning.
As the sun touches fingers of light to the top trees of the Kopjie, Violet backed wood hoopoes and babblers are the only sign of lifein the trees around the den.
At 7 am I drive further along the road to Sunset Rock, negotiating the fallen Mopani trunks that block my path and betray the nocturnal activities of many many elephants, and stopping to listen often, for tell-tale dog noises…. Nothing.
Then I visit an old den in a termite mound at the base of the sheet of rock leading up to the summit. Many years ago we had a pack denning here…but I am only going through te motions-I have never seen andy of our dog dens used more than once in eighteen years of watching these Lowveld dogs!
I get hopeful when I hear a Go Away bird yelling alarm to my left and I see two kudu cows and their baby poised for flight on a sandy rise of ground. P
Stopping again, I write, muse and listen. Nothing.
Maybe Misheck on his motorbike will have better luck than me.
We view the camera trap later in the morning with Misheck, who has not found the new den.
4.41 pm Clive. And I drive to Sunset Rock for a sundowner, Misheck is out looking for the dogs….
Guess what we find at the very top of the Kopjie?…our Nyarushanga pack!
We see them lying up in the pale gold grass among the zerophyta retinerva plants, round ears turned our way…can’t believe my luck!
All looks well but we don’t want to stay and discomfort them, so we reverse away and depart, spotting the Alpha female as we do so. Her teats are diminished compared to how swollen they were last time I saw her, at the time of the lion attack. Are the pups safely relocated or are they dead….sad thoughts.
Waiting at the base of the Kopjie, we are soon rewarded by the descent of the alpha female accompanied by three dogs…

Here she comes..spectacular granite boulders dwarf the approaching wild dog!….

the Sunset Rock, a dog descends... lo resjpg.jpgThey circle us, growl and after many minutes of scent marking and defecating, they seem to decide that it is time to hunt, and off they go in a fluid line over the rich, heading towards the boundary of Hammond and Senuko.

So many questions hang in the air, where are the pups, where are the rest of the pack..?

Only time and observation will tell. Unfortunately we can not track the pack as Lupas’s collar is no longer working.

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Interestingly, this male dog below looked very intent on protecting and escorting the bereaved Alpha female, scent marking wherever she did…

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Jessica says:
Cain went down and took samples from Foxy’s body for genetic and disease records, then just moved the body about 200m from the den so that the pack could still find him and stop looking for him, but it would hopefully reduce some risk of lions and hyenas. Cain checked the pack the next morning and they seemed relaxed and had not moved dens, so all seems well.
He was a very big and old boy though – teeth in very bad condition, and all canines broken in half. Sad that he had to go, but at least a natural death.
The collared dog left with the pack now is Lupas. He has a VHF collar. Wolf had a GPS collar, but he was last seen moving with the left over females from Mambira pack!!

Posted in adventure travel, Africa, African Safari, African wild dogs, african wildlife, african wildlife conservation fund, beauty, bio diversity, clive stockil, community conservation, conservation, conservation education, conservation news, dogs, eco-tourism, endangered species, full moon, great limpopo transfrontier conservation Area, landscape, Lin Barrie Art, Painted Dogs, predators, Save Valley Conservancy, Senuko, travel, wild dogs, wilderness, zimbabwe, Zimbabwe Parks | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Ian Craig…OBE Honour for a man who truly honours wildlife and conservation…

 

Ian Craig

Ian Craig

One of our dearest friends, a conservationist of extreme dedication, Ian Craig, was awarded a prestigious Order of the British Empire last week by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II for services to conservation and security to communities in Kenya……….

Words can not express our love and admiration for his achievements over many years…come back and visit us in Zimbabwe, Ian!

We had such wonderful times in Kenya with you and Jane, Willy and Sue, and more wonderful times in the lowveld of Zimbabwe….

 

 

Posted in adventure travel, Africa, African child, African Safari, african wildlife, animal rights, anti poaching, Black rhinos, bush camps, clive stockil, community conservation, conservation, conservation news, Duchess of Cambridge, Duke of Cambridge, eco-tourism, education, elephants, endangered species, lewa conservancy, Northern Rangelands Trust, Poaching, Prince William, Prince William Award For Conservation, Queen Elizabeth II, Sabi Stars, Save Valley Conservancy, Sirikoi safari Lodge, The Royal Foundation, White rhinos, wild dogs, wilderness, wildlife trade, world rhino day, zimbabwe, Zimbabwe Parks | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Of Elephants and Water, Wild Dogs and Birding….

Of Elephants and Water, Wild Dogs and Birding….

May 20th, 2016
We have just spent four intense days at Tsavene… our beautiful but neglected Senuko bush house.

Robyn's photos of our Tsavene house

Robyn’s photos of our Tsavene house and Eland Pan

Waves and waves of buffalo coming to our muddy Tsavene waterhole, and then departing for our Senuko Dam, or nearby Eland pan, desperate for water that we could not supply due to our current economic situation, have stared accusingly at us…

Lin Barrie - buffalo on handmade paper

Lin Barrie – buffalo on handmade paper

The first night brings the crunching of bones and a midnight scuffle, with an early  morning discovery of blood, footprints and drag marks….a young leopard has killed something and pulled it away from the house! Hyena tracks and civet tracks and midden all close by…

Robyn, staying with us, reports peering from her bed and through the upstairs window not the tree branches in the early hours, and feeling like she was looking at a leopard peering back at her. She was!
Kudu, baboons, warthogs and impala mill around the waterhole all day…wishful thinking, although at least there is mud for two huge male warthogs males to relish and roll in….

Teenage male warthogs patrol the sidelines, shoved and vociferously chased by their fierce mums, who now have the younger babies from late last year to engross their energies…

Shame, poor teenagers…a tough time ahead for them, learning to   fend for themselves with less and less water and browse as the dry season progresses…and very vulnerable to predators.

The impala Rams are fiercely rutting, clashing twisted horns, and the bunched females chatting eagerly to each other in anticipation of greeting the victorious males who win their favour !
Dog denning season is nigh and everywhere I drive or walk, I am in anticipation of seeing wild dogs or hearing of a den from the wild dog scouts…

We spend a gorgeous sunset at our Dam ….

Senuko Dam at sunset

Senuko Dam at sunset

robyn in africa

robyn in africa

 

Last night at Tsavene, we decide on an evening sundowner at Eland Pan, after hacking our way through roads blocked by numerous mopping trees felled by elephants…(we should have realized while we were hacking at the logs, that this was a serious warning of Elephants Galore to come!)

The lowering sun and bright nearly full moon, brings us the joy of quietly watching seven Zebra cautiously approach and drink, striped reflections wavering prettily on the water. Distinctive grunts herald the arrival of a herd of 20 or more wildebeests who are slow to accept our still presence but then relax. Five males cavort around the pan, kicking their heels up and chasing each other before drinking thirstily with the females and rubbing their heads on the mud, two or three of them even deciding we are acceptable and enough a part of the scenery for them to start rolling in the damp sand…

Giraffes watch, aloof, from the surrounding fringe of trees.
We smell, then hear the arrival of an elephant…
She materialises suddenly from the bush opposite us and within minutes her herd is following, babies mums and aunties roll majestically in, scattering the wildebeests, and we are awed and taken aback at the endless groups that silently emerge into our view…

Towering over us even from afar as we sit on our matchstick chairs behind the puny log at the opposite edge of the shallow water! Within minutes the world is all elephants, splashing slurping nudging and rumbling as they suck at the water. Their progress around and through the pan towards us is accompanied by the arrival of yet more…and more. We are not prepared for the sheer volumes of grey giants that keep arriving in the dusk to tower in front of us, as we realize we need to be very fast and polite and move out of their way, bow our heads to them…!
Our chairs need to be left in the dust as we silently and rapidly retreat from the gentle tsunami of elephants and cocoon ourselves in the car to watch for a chance to retrieve our chairs without worrying the enveloping beasts too much!
A majestic and HUGE bull arrives. Breathtaking.
A younger bull stands behind a tree close to us, staring, but not too stressed then moves away, giving Glenn and I a chance to slip back and collect our abandoned jackets and chairs.. What a joy to be in the space of such giants and to feel that immense sense of family and communication between them … Our own sense of family is then deepened by the pressing need to preserve ourselves and take immediate evasive action as elephants, unthreatening but in our faces never the less, begin to surround us with their sheer numbers. We rapidly drive away in the cars, giving them the space they need.
Arriving home to Tsavene we set up our fire and sit under the cloudy but brightly moonlit sky to reminisce our elephant experience, when an excited call from our nearby staff quarters gets us dashing for the car to roll down the hill- wild dogs! The staff have heard them twittering and tearing at a kill in the grass surrounding their house! We slowly approach and discover that we have disturbed a feeding pick- they have left a large Impala ram gutted and glistening, at our feet as we tiptoe through the grass. We retreat to give them space to come back, but maybe they won’t…
Back up the hill, eating our own dinner around the fire, we soon hear the staff shout, “they’re back” and we decide to leave them to their meal in peace.
The early hours of the morning after a night of elephant and wild dog dreams, brings the tremendous roar of a male lion very close to our house, answered once by a fellow lion and then gone. Faded into the bright moonlit night.
Dawn shows us the site of the wild dog kill… Nothing left, all gone and the few remains dragged away by a hyena. Is there a pregnant alpha female with this as yet unseen pack? I am tantalized, imagining her puppy-tight belly as she fills herself with life-giving red meat. I so hope they den close by – they are an integral part of our bush life, my muses for painting and dreaming, most loved and welcome co-inhabitants of our wilderness world.

Onto Kyle Recreational Park, where we join Birdlife Zimbabwe for an intense AGM, fine simple food on the fire and fabulous (CHILLY) views…

Girls on a rock...

Girls on a rock…Kelli, Robyn and Lin

with lots of birding…skeins of whiteface ducks overfly us …White faced ducks as a full moon struggles through the cold clouds…

a full african moon, oil on canvas, by Lin Barrie

a full african moon, oil on canvas, by Lin Barrie

Multitudinous tracks and scats of the white rhino are seen, a good nucleus of these special creatures is cared for by the Kyle rangers and helped by SAVE Australia…

white rhino sketch by Lin Barrie

white rhino sketch by Lin Barrie

 

Posted in African child, African Safari, African wild dogs, african wildlife, african wildlife conservation fund, animal rights, anti poaching, art, beauty, bio diversity, birding, Birdlife Zimbabwe, birds, bush camps, clive stockil, conservation, cooking, eco-tourism, edible plant, family, flowers, food, food culture, full moon, Lin Barrie Art, painted Dogs, painted wolves, predators, prey, rhinos, Senuko, tradition, White rhinos, wild dogs, wilderness, zimbabwe, Zimbabwe Parks | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Of Giant Snails and Tradition; Fire and Totems….

Of Giant Snails and Tradition; Fire and Totems….

In the Southeast lowveld of Zimbabwe, on the Save River, The Chauke Clan totem is the African Giant Snail….

here is my art installation of giant land snail shells and fire-fired clay pot…

snail shells and fired pot in a cage.jpg

read on to find the story behind this piece…snail shells and fired pot in a cage detail.jpg

So….the story begins…

Seen here is a snail shell at Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge on the Save River…

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I never tire of sketching these wild and wonderful mollusks and their shells….

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In the verbal history of the Changana Chauke Clan, living in the lowveld of Zimbabwe in the village of Chief Mahenye, there is a fascinating story told by the elders of how the Giant African snail came to be their totem.

Victor Chauke at Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge has shared his Father’s story with me…as has Clive Stockil….

Back in those far-off days of hunter/gatherer existence, the Chauke family inhabited the Gonarezhou and Save Valley River area. Their Uncles, the Hlungwani family, had the knowledge and use of fire. The Chauke clan did not. Fire was supposed to be their totem- and yet they were deprived of it. By luck and daring, a Chauke clan member managed to collect some fire embers from the rival clan by using an empty giant snail shell as a receptacle for the glowing treasure.

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The Chauke clan celebrated the fact that they had fire in their clan. They could now keep warm and cook their meat, and most importantly they could fire and harden the full-bellied clay pots that the women crafted to carry life-giving water, and cook relish.

Xangana pots, fired and beautifully hardy…..

mahenye hand made pots.jpg

Multiple uses of the fabulous fire-hardened pots included brewing of sorghum beer and collection of palm sap for palm wine!

clay pot for palm wine.JPG

So- the Chauke family  adopted the Giant snail as their totem –

andre botha snail.jpg

…..a creature which “withstood” the fire and also a creature which,  even after a strong bush fire has passed, will eventually creep out of its underground hiding place to emerge victorious over the fire…!!

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Since it is their totem, the Chauke family are not allowed to eat a snail and it is believed that if you eat your totem you will loose your teeth!

IMG_8913.jpgSo, to this day the Chauke clan do not eat the snail and they use the fire as their slogan when they say ” (iyachisa) mulilo….” in their meetings and gatherings.

This is an acrylic painting of mine, two meters long, titled “iyachisa mulilo….” IMG_9178.jpg

My art reflects the history of the snail shell, fire and pottery, in conjunction with Xangana tradition…

Posted in adventure travel, Africa, African child, African flora, african wildlife, african wildlife conservation fund, art, art collaboration, beauty, bio diversity, Changana people, Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, clive stockil, community conservation, conservation, conservation education, cooking, cultural beliefs, culture, eco-tourism, education, endangered species, food, food culture, giant African snail, gonarezhou national park, great limpopo transfrontier conservation Area, Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park, hlungwani peiople, home grown food, homegrown, initiation rites, Lin Barrie Art, molluscs, oral history, Shangaana people, spoken tradition, Totem, tradition, travel, wilderness, wildlife trade | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Deeper, and deeper, into Africa!

The HAC Caravan lifts effortlessly and we wing our way over the neat cluster of high rise buildings that puncture Harare’s CBD, surrounded in the south by sprawling fast growing hi-density suburbia- row upon row of little box houses standing in the baking sun- I hope the trees that were razed to accommodate them are soon replaced by home -owners with some vision of a greener shadier place for their children to play…

Flying low over patchwork green and tan centre pivots, I am inspired by the graphic circles – some functioning and some mere relics of intensive rich agriculture…..a few abstract paintings may result…..

Seemingly within minutes, riding higher and hardly noticing the turbulence of the puffy white clouds that we plunge through, we drop over the tumultuous Mavuradona Mountains and into an airstrip in Mana Pools, well kept, with impala waiting to greet us at the end of the runway! A safari vehicle is on hand to whisk some of our passengers to their safari camp and then we are on our way again, two masterful young pilots at the helm giving confidence as we wing our way over mopani scrubland and jutting baobabs. Up and out of the Mana flood plain and towards the Matusadona Hills. First sight of the giant inland Lake Kariba, winking at me on the horizon, is always a thrill. Memories and adrenaline on spotting that awesome body of water from a distance- evoking childhood train rides from Harare to the south coast of Durban and our first excited vision of blue ocean and white rollers.

A quick stop on Kariba airstrip to collect eggs and green vegetables and we take off again. Two stately baobabs, still in leaf from the late rains I guess, and lovingly preserved on the open airstrip, bid us Bon Voyage – underneath one of them two ground hornbills strut, unconcerned by our noisy passing…

fascinating birds to sketch

fascinating birds to sketch

They intrigue and inspire me, whether on the ground or in magnificent white-tipped flight…

Southern ground hornbill

Southern ground hornbill -painting by Lin Barrie, acrylic on canvas,

Flying up the Kariba Lake, we pass Spurwing Island, Fothergill Island and the Sengwe Gorge. I am always enthralled by the vastness of this ‘inland sea’. Mopani-clad mountains flank the sea’s grassy shores, populated by elephants galore, and shallow waters where nurseries of baby fish, herons and crocodiles abound, in turn lead to deep mysterious water, home to Nyami Nyami the river God,

Nyami Nyami

Nyami Nyami

and home to the magnificent fighting tiger fish which set angler’s hearts racing…

gorgeous and fierce tigerfish...

gorgeous and fierce tigerfish…

Bumi Hills Safari Lodge is set high on a hill and we circle around the magnificent view, above Starvation Island and past numerous elephants pottering on the foreshore, waterbuck and impala in deeper grass, to land on the well kept airstrip. Greeted by safari guides and vehicles, and with grateful farewell to our pilots Simon and Adam, we are whisked up to the lodge- I have visited many moons ago but am entranced anew by the warm welcome, the cool facecloth, the gorgeous entrance, and most especially the view forever over the infinity pool to the vast blue-grey lake spread below…

infinity....

infinity….

Tropical gardens and ambience are present in spades. Someone remarks that this could be Mexico!

bright hibiscus at Bumi

bright hibiscus at Bumi

I get a feeling of some of the Florida gardens and poolsides I have seen in boutique hotels in Miami- this being a gentler, more subtle version complete with coconut palm and butterflies on the edge of infinity……

the edge of infinity...

the edge of infinity…

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But this is not Florida, these are African butterflies, dozens of species in one view, plus African vervet monkeys peering from leafy growth, baboons lurking with intent, and inquisitive tree squirrels..

…this is Deeper Africa!

I never tire of sketching baboons...such characters...

I never tire of sketching baboons…such characters…

And the view past the palm tree is of quintessential Africa: herds of elephants on the edge of the lake water…

Elephant sketch by Lin Barrie

Elephant sketch by Lin Barrie

 

Entrancing as the view is and comfortable as the rooms are (each with individually spectacular views), after an anti-poaching debrief by Mark Brightman and his team from Bumi Hills Anti Poaching Unit (BHAPU), we can’t wait to board two boats back down at the waters edge to explore the inlets and submerged trees. Our crew includes Will Smith and Shelley Cox, part of a “Deeper Africa”  initiative called Zimbabwe: Conservation and Culture safari…They have already visited Somalisa Camp in Hwange National Park.

We are accompanied by a journey of journalists and publicists from USA – all part of a tourism initiative to market “Deeper Africa” to American guests who want to get more interest and value out of their African travel- emphasizing community conservation.

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As we leave the harbour a mother hippo and her tiny baby rise to blow and stare at us as we float past, seemingly unthreatened by a nearby crocodile, a LARGE one, who may or may not be watching us as well…..

a joy for me to be on the waters of Kariba again...

a joy for me to be on the waters of Kariba again…

Butterflies again, now a steady stream of golden and black beauties, African monarchs, flutters low over the calm water and all going one way.

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But to where I wonder…I know the Monarchs migrate vast distances in Northern and Central America, but here in Africa I think any migrations are more localized… And apparently there are some usurpers among them, the diadems, who robe themselves in the same vibrant colours to kid would-be predators that they too are poisonous!

Clive Stockil ,winner of the Prince William Award for a Lifetime Achievement in Conservation, takes time to answer penetrating conservation and community questions from the team;

Clive shares his thoughts on conservation...

Clive shares his thoughts on conservation…

Sundown brings cool glasses of wine…

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Fish catching is fun for all-some of us concentrate more on a good glass of wine than actually fishing….Cheers!

Will Smith, with Shelley Cox approaching over the lilac sunset waters…..Will Smith, with Shelley Cox approaching over the lilac sunset waters.....

reflections...

reflections…

My fish is the first of the day- a tiny bream smaller than the worm on my hook that it was trying to swallow! I am happy to see it easily swim away after I detach the hook.

Shelley totally upstages me and catches a large bream..

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After that squeakers galore are hauled in and cautiously released, respect being given to their fierce spines! Or is it always the same enterprising squeaker, returning again and again to the delicious worms offered?!

fisherman in the sunset..

fisherman in the sunset..

 

Goliath heron and a great white patrol the reeds nearby and a fish eagle perches in stately silhouette as the setting sun turns the water first lilac, then gold. As if by signal, as the sun expends its last glow, the surface of gold is suddenly punctuated by hundreds, thousands of tiny rises, kapenta fish leaping gently to break the surface and immediately packs of hunting dragon flies swarm above them. Are they all feeding on tiny gnats or other little things that we can not see?

The boat ride back to shore is in deep cool dusk, the Southern cross and my favourite star Sirius, the Dog Star, bright above us.

Morning brings a sweet sunrise view from my room balcony,

sweet sunrise

sweet sunrise

accompanied by a cup of fresh made filter coffee. Elephants are always visual on this shore in some form or another-a joy and a worry- endangered globally as they are. We need to responsibly protect and nurture these last great pockets of wild- living elephants.

The team dash off after breakfast to view three lions close by and then to walk with the Bumi Hills Anti Poaching Unit, to understand better how that crew of dedicated guys operate.

This is one of the male lions they found, interacting with a female and challenged by another male…..

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I have a tension headache three days old, perhaps a come down after the intense efforts of my recent spray painting job on the aeroplane. So I opt for a neck and back massage, lying prone and listening to the ground hornbills in the distance as Rutendo eases the aches out of my muscles. Bliss.

After that of course I need to retire to my room and shower, and test the view from the bed in daylight…

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Wow! stunning- as I lie on my bed I can see elephants gathering on the foreshore and bathing in the lake. This is truly elephant paradise. Three young bulls spend at least an hour wallowing – I hear the splashing from my high balcony!

Then I jump up and run to the edge of the balcony to get a better look as a high pitched trumpeting announces the arrival of a cow herd. I know that pitch- likely they have a very new calf… And sure enough from the cover of the mopani trees breaks a party of elephants led by a tiny baby running fast! He is hotly pursued by a half grown sibling and his mum, with a dozen others trailing behind!

I realize he is making for two lone elephants who stand a way off towards the waters edge… And his mum seems intent on halting him! Which she soon does- she and the half grown catch up to him and wheel in front of him, blocking his path with their bodies and trunks as he skids to a halt. At the same time the two loners rapidly approach and an elaborate greeting takes place, all circling the little one in their midst and much touching of trunks…is this the first time since his recent birth that he has been introduced to them – or was he running so fast because he knew them from a previous meeting?

the tiny baby is visible in this group....

the tiny baby is visible in this group….to the right of the tight clump of elephants!

It soon becomes obvious that the protective circle will not be allowing him be allowing him near the water edge-they all stay well back and keep him playing in their midst.

I spend the whole morning watching and pondering elephants.

Elephants, elephants, elephants….

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It seems to me that elephants are the really strong thread through the Deeper Africa community conservation theme that we are exploring…of course we are looking at whole ecosystems: wild dogs and baobabs, communities and culture, food and tradition, but in the eventual analysis it is all about SPACE for every link in the chain to exist, and no single animal or plant in that chain needs SPACE more than the iconic elephant.

It is indeed the ‘elephant in the room…!’

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BHAPU224158_181633288553163_3680696_n and VFAPU

are tirelessly protecting elephants…in Victoria Falls/Hwange and Kariba…victoria-falls-anti-poaching-unit-01.jpg

Somalisa Camp in Hwange National Park is known for up close and personal viewing of elephants…

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Gonarezhou National Park, encompassing the magnificent Chilojo Cliffs,  is truly “The Sacred Totem, or Amulet, of the Elephants” as suggested in its native name. Here elephants, giants in themselves, are dwarfed by the towering Chilojo Cliffs as they cross the Runde River…..

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Anthony Kaschula of Gonarezhou Bushcamps gives guests in depth tracking and understanding of these gentle giants in Gonarezhou National Park, Gallery | Gonarezhou Bush Camps.jpg

and Frankfurt Zoological Society provides invaluable support systems to the park management…such as tracker dogs,scout training and field work..

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Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge sits high over the Save River on the edge of Gonarezhou National Park, on the edge of serenity…

Adenium multiflorum blooming at Chilo, Save River in background...

with surreal and fantastic views of elephants from the high decks….as in this photograph by Steph Walton at Chilo…

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This area, part of the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (GLTFCA), belongs to Chief Mahenye, with a rich cultural history. His Changana Community have historically  been hunter/gatherers, efficient conservationists in their own right and protectors of a vibrant culture of music, dance. beadwork and hut painting.

Here is my large oil painting of a Changana man dancing…

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Changana people use the natural pigments found in the soil, and tree ash, to create stunning hut paintings…gltfca-hunter-hut-painting-lo-res

a traditional fish trap…

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this is the gorgeous beadwork on their dancing skirts…

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Chief Mahenye’s people live daily with elephants, and practice true community conservation..

Gonarezhou…and all our National Parks, are places of endless elephant footprints, elephant history, and hopefully a bright elephant future….!

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